Replacing Spark Plugs yourself, do it yourself

Lots of things have changed in recent decades when you talk about the "tune-up." Back when the phrase was coined, you had to get under the hood with screwdrivers and do things like adjust ignition points, replace condensors, set engine timing and change your spark plugs. Wait, we can still change the spark plugs!

It's one of the last surviving elements of the classic tune-up. Most cars still have a spark plug or 8 in there someplace, and even today's technology hasn't stopped them from wearing out. It's an easy maintenance procedure that can make your car run more smoothly and increase your gas mileage.
What is a spark plug? Basically it's a high voltage bridge for electricity. When the electricity crosses the "bridge" (which is actually a gap between two contact points) inside your engine, the spark it makes ignites the gas vapors, which makes the engine go putt putt. How long they can do this without being replaced depends on lots of things. The condition of your engine, the purity of the fuel you're using, even your driving habits can affect the life of the plugs.

You'll need the following tools to get the job done:
ratchet wrench 1/2"
12-inch socket extension
spark plug socket for your car
Like I said, it's not too complex, but don't forget tofollow the directions in order!

Locate the spark plugs. If you follow those thick, rubbery wires under the hood, you'll find the spark plugs (one at the end of each wire.) If you have a 4-cylinder engine, your four spark plugs will be at the top of the engine in a row in front of you. If you have a V8, you'll have to reach down on both sides of the engine to get them out, four on the left and four on the right. If you have a 6-cylinder engine, they could go either way, but if you follow the wires you will find them. Certain cars like, Dodge viper, Voltzwagon jetta, VW bug, Subaru Impreza and Mid/ rear engine cars ( toyota Mr2 , Pointiac Fiero V6 ) may be tricky to get to the plugs.

STOP!You're about to reach for those spark plug wires and pull them all out at once, aren't you? Don't do it! Your spark plugs fire in a specific order, and it's a heck of a lot easier to replace them one at a time without getting them mixed up.
Starting at the end of the row, pull the wire off the end of the spark plug by grasping it as close to the engine as possible then pulling. You might have to give it a little wiggle to get it off. If you have a 4-cylinder engine with the plug wires going into the top, your plugs might be at the bottom of a hole (if you have a dual over head cam top end configuration). If this is the case, just pull straight up and you'll pull a long rubber boot out of the hole.

Now that you have one plug wire off, put your spark plug socket and the extension on your ratchet. If you look inside the spark plug socket, you should see some black foam or rubber on the inside end. This is important, because it holds onto the spark plug while you maneuver it in and out of the engine.

optional but knifty
If for some reason your socket doesn't have the gripper in there, you can improvise. Cut off a half inch or less of electrical or masking tape and stick it onto the inside of the clean socket. This will make the socket grip a little more tightly on the spark plug so you can hold onto it.
With your ratchet wrench set to loosen (that's counter-clockwise) slide it over the end of the plug, being sure to push it on as far as it will go. Now remove the old plug. I recomend spending the 5 buck for an actual Spark Plug Socket with the rubber grip on the inside.

While you have your old plug in your hand, take a look at it. It should be a little dirty on the end, a little black with a little soot, the key phrase being "a little." If it's white or oily, this could indicate other problems so make a note of how they're looking. Also check to see if the porcelain insulator is cracked.
Finally, take a look at how the end you pulled the plug wire off is set up. Some will just be threaded like a screw, and others will have a large metal cap on the end. Be sure your new plugs are set up like the old ones were.

With the wire end of your plug set up like the old one, you're ready to put it in the car.
But don't I have to set the gap with one of those fun tools?
These days you order plugs specifically for your car, and they come already gapped. I know some die-hards out there will strongly disagree (here come the e-mails) but I have never opened a new spark plug and had to reset the gap, never!
Put the plug-wire end of the plug in the socket and, holding just the extension, push it all the way in. Now carefully guide the spark plug into the hole. Try not to ram it in or bang it on anything because this can screw up the gap or damage the plug. With it sitting in the hole, begin to screw the new plug in by hand. Starting them off by hand instead of using the wrench will keep you from accidentally cross-threading one of the plugs. Screw it in by hand until it stops, then put the wrench on the end and tighten it snugly. If you have a torque wrench, you can torque it to spec, but if you don't, just make it tight without overdoing it. The metal in there is soft and can be damaged by overtightening. If you are pulling hard enough to make a sound come out of your mouth, like a grunt, you're overdoing it.

Repeat all the steps one plug at a time until you've done 'em all. Now start her up and listen to the purr!
*If you decided not to listen and pulled all the wires off at once, you might have mixed up the plug wires. You'll know if you did because it either won't start, will run really rough, or if you're very unlucky you'll hear a deafening backfire. Now you have to go and look up your engine's firing order, correspond that to the points on the distributor cap after you set the engine to Top Dead Center and put them all back on. Doesn't it sound easier to replace them one at a time?

DIY Enviromentally friendly Spot Free Car washing

DIY Enviromentally friendly Spot Free Car Wash

with Pur Filter ( or Brita Water Filter)

Show car paint washing, and New Fresh Paint washing
How you ever used Mr Clean Car wash? I will explain what it is. The mr clean car wash uses a soap that has wax in it. It ofcourse is not needed if your car has been waxed recently. Heavy water is water that has deposits and checmicals that make drinking water safe. These include flouride, chlorine, Iron, and calcium just to name the most common. Some also have copper deposits and even PVC which flakes off of the inside of household piping. Any metal parts in the water you are washing with always results in tiny scratches. It may take 50 washes for these scratches to be obvious but even at one wash per week thats less than 4 months. Flouride and chlorine bleach your paint. These things are added to drinking water to keep it safe but it's not good for cars or the enviroment. The Car is Washed with a soap that has lubricant /wax ( carnaubue natural wax ) mixed in the solution. Then rinsed with water that has been filtered. Mr clean car wash may cost 14-16 dollars for three washes worth if using as directed. However what if I dont wanna use thier product. Heres the DIY Part!
DIY Spot Free Car Wash ,enviromentally friendly

1. Pull out a bucket that is clean on the inside. Fill is with filtered water as in next step. This is your hand washing bucket. Have MicroFiber Rags/ towels avialable as they actually clean debris VERY well using very little soap. I would only add enough soap that it feels Slippery when washing ( that could be a capful of carwash solution made by turtle wax).

2. Use a Brita or Pur water filter pitcher. Fill up the Water Filter, It makes about a gallon at a time. You need 2 gallons to wash with in a Seperate bucket and then another 2 gallons to fill your pressure sprayer.

34.99 and can be reused about 10 washes before you need to get another filter. Replacement filter is 12.99 at walmart. Thats 1.29 per filtered car wash ( plus soap) FYI verses around 5 dollars per wash with Mr Clean Solution.

3. You can get a Insecticide pressure sprayer ( one of those that has a nozzle hose and hand pump on top) and fill it with the filtered water.

2 Gallon 45 PSI Pump sprayer $11.95 + SH
http://www.horse.com/products/sku-BRA90__id-60__scode-hnextag.html

4. Use my instructions from the previous post on how to wash a car. Wash the car like you are suppose to with a low surfactant residue soap ( car soap). Then rinse with the filtered water. Wash each area then immediatly rinse with the clean filtered water. The Filtered water rinse leaves the paint finish spot free. It could take 15 minutes longer to wash your whole car this way but the results are much better and your car will be happy.

Notice: Really the only thing you need to worry about here is using a good wax ( after washing) or soap with wax and Rinsing with filtered water. The filtered water can be poured straight from a pitcher but that takes probably 10-15 fills to wash the whole car. I rather use a pressurized spray bottle.

Using this kind of portable water source makes this form of car washing Apartment Friendly as there are not garden hose hookups required.

More care care tips at : diycarcare.blogspot.com
http://diycarcare.blogspot.com/

How to Change a Car Battery , Battery replacement

How to Change a Car Battery

Automotive batteries don't last forever, so if you notice your headlights dimming, it's been 3-7 years since you got a new battery, or the car needs a jump-start, it might be time for a change. You can bring it to an experienced and trusted auto mechanic, or you can get the job done yourself. Changing a battery is a quick and easy job in most cars and vans and can be done with minimal tools.

1. Make sure the battery needs replacing. You don't want to spend time and money installing a new battery if the problem is not with the battery itself. Look for sulfate build-up in the form of a whitish or blue residue around the terminal--removing this can sometimes solve issues with a faulty battery. DO NOT TOUCH THIS POWDER WITH YOUR BARE HANDS, as it can often contain dried out sulfuric acid which will begin to unnoticably corrode your skin. Also verify that the battery has been given the chance to recharge properly by driving constantly for 30 minutes (with minimal electrical usage, including the air conditioner). Finally, check the alternator. Some cars also have a battery meter, with the engine running, the alternator usually maintains a charge close to 13.8-14.2 volts in a properly functioning charging system. The battery should have 12.4-12.8 volts with the engine off, and with no accessory load. If you've determined that your battery problems can't be attributed to any of the above, or if you see cracks or oozing liquid on the top of the battery, it's probably safe to proceed with replacement.

2. Buy the correct replacement battery. Find out what kind of battery you're replacing (Or the dimensions of your battery) and bring this information to a local auto parts store. This is important because automotive batteries vary in size, and you will want to purchase a battery which matches the size of the battery tray/support in your vehicle.

3. Set up a secure working environment - Park on a flat, level surface at a safe distance from traffic, sparks or open flames. Put on the parking brake. Don't smoke, and make sure any smokers in proximity to the working area know not to smoke as well. Remember that electricity is not the only danger; batteries contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte solution, which is highly corrosive (i.e. can burn your skin) and produces a flammable gas. Put on gloves.

4.Remove the cigarette lighter and plug the memory keeper into the lighter socket. A memory keeper will keep the PIN codes and settings for radios and navigation systems from getting erased when you disconnect the battery. If you don't have a memory keeper make sure you have all the PINs for your electronic equipment before you start. Use may wish to check your car manual to see what devices may be affected.

5.Open the hood - After opening your hood use the prop rod to keep your hood open (Most newer cars have hoods that hold themselves up.

6.Locate the battery - The battery should be located in an accessible part on either side of the car's frame. The battery is a rectangular box with two cables attached to it. Some european cars (BMW's, new Benz-Chrystler's) have the battery under the metting in the trunk, or inside the fender of the wheel well (The latter is often very difficult to remove).

7.Identify battery terminals - Locate the positive and the negative terminals of the old car battery. The positive terminal will have a plus sign and the negative terminal will have a minus sign.

8.Disconnect the negative terminal - Loosen the negative cable clamp with a wrench (Usually 8mm or 10mm) and slide it off of the terminal. If the cables are unmarked, label them so that they don't get mixed up (otherwise you may ruin your car's electric system later on). It is also important that you disconnect the negative terminal socket before the positive terminal socket

9.Disconnect the positive terminal.

10.Remove the car battery - Unfasten the battery holder and remove any screws, clamps or bars holding the battery in place. Carefully lift the battery out of the car. Remember that a battery can weigh 30 to 60 pounds, or 13.5 to 27 kilos, so if you have any back problems, get a helping hand.

11.Clean the terminal clamps and the battery tray. You can use a baking soda solution and a wire brush. If there's any severe corrosion, consider replacement by a mechanic. Otherwise, let the area dry before moving onto the next step.

12.Replace the battery - Place the new battery where you just took the old battery out, with the positive and negative terminals on the correct sides. Connect all the screws, clamps or bars that may hold the battery in place

Reconnect the Positive wire to the Positive Post First then the Negative Post Second.

Apply Lithium Electrical grease to prevent corrosion over the next 3-5 years before the next battery replacement.

How to Chang your Oil in your car, and what kind of oil to use

How to Change the Oil in Your Car

Regularly changing you car's engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car running well. Over time your oil breaks down and your filter becomes clogged with contaminants. Depending upon your driving habits, this may take as few as 3 months or 3,000 miles (consult your owner's manual for service intervals). Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and inexpensive. This article will help you to learn how.

1.Gather all the necessary supplies and equipment. Under your car with all the oil out is not the time to discover what is missing. It will help to have everything close at hand. Proof of regular oil changes is required to keep your valuable warranty coverage, so save your receipts.

2.Find a flat surface suitable for changing your oil. Level driveways or alleys are ideal. Start by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands. If you're working on a car with a high ground clearance you can just shimmy under. This saves time and is safer: if the car isn't up, it can't fall down! If you do jack up your car, be sure to put blocks behind the back tires to prevent the car from rolling backward. The best time to drain the oil is right after driving as the oil will be more liquid, allowing you to remove as much of the old oil as possible (Caution: take great care when working with a hot engine).

3.Locate the drain plug for the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. The bolt size will vary from car to car, is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyota and Lexus are 14mm (older models may be 13mm), all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguars are 30mm, older Volvos are 25mm, BMWs are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm. All others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles it you may have to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pickups and SUVs will have steel skid plates.

4.Position whatever you are catching the oil with under the plug, then loosen the bolt. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large. Lay something under the car to catch oil runoff. As the oil comes out of the pan at an angle, it can be tricky to catch, and may land on the ground. If this includes your driveway, you will want some newspaper or a drop cloth to catch it, or you risk an oil stain on your driveway or garage.

5.Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position, and they can be on the front, back and side of engines. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. If you can't get it off by hand, use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying. It will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it and have a pan underneath to catch the drips.


6.Replace the drain plug.Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket

7.This would be a good time to wipe any debris or buildup off the surface where the gasket will seat.Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters, they will always come with at least one o-ring, sometimes as many as four different ones. Make sure to replace all of them to ensure that they will not leak. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it. Go until the gasket touches, then however far it says it should be. This is usually 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn after the gasket touches

8.Add oil to the car at the fill hole up to the amount in the owner's manual. Don't rely on the dip stick for an accurate measurement; it can be off. If the manual calls for five quarts, put in five. Also if the engine has been run, the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries. If you want to check the stick for accuracy, just check it first thing in the morning. It's a relative thing.

Last Step: Replace the fill cap and close the hood. Make sure there isnt oil pouring our dripping from the oil drain plug you screwed back in. Its not good to loose oil so check now.

Start your engine and make sure you have oil pressure. Not all cars have oil pressure guage. Those that dont have an oil light, If the oil light stays on for more than three seconds or so then you arent getting oil flow. Check everthing to make sure oil level is correct. Double check the Dip stick and that there is no oil leaking onto the ground.

TIPS:

Be sure to have the right filter, the auto part store can help you by looking up your car and can assist with getting the right oil. generally you will always need 5 quarts of oil.

You can lower your cost by buying cheaper oil and filters if you so choose. Remember, though, to always make sure that the oil you use fulfills the car manufacturer's requirements as stated in the manual. Be sure to use the oil specified in the owners manual as to viscosity. That's the number that looks like "10w-30". A lower "W" rating means the oil is formulated to flow better in cold. Below freezing, a 5w oil is preferred. Below 0°F (-18°C), a synthetic 0w oil is worth considering

Watch some else do it to a car like yours or...

If you are usure how to get to your cars filter and properly change the oil take it to a mechanic and have them change it for you the first time and watch what panel must come off. Seeing it done makes it much easier to do yourself later!

More DIY car stuff at http://www.wikihow.com

DIY Spot free rinse/ Spot free car wash

DIY Spot Free Car Wash with Pur Water Filter ( or Brita Water Filter)
Show car paint washing, and New Fresh Paint washing

How you ever used Mr Clean Car wash? I will explain what it is. The mr clean car wash uses a soap that has wax in it. It ofcourse is not needed if your car has been waxed recently. Heavy water is water that has deposits and checmicals that make drinking water safe. These include flouride, chlorine, Iron, and calcium just to name the most common. Some also have copper deposits and even PVC which flakes off of the inside of household piping. Any metal parts in the water you are washing with always results in tiny scratches. It may take 50 washes for these scratches to be obvious but even at one wash per week thats less than 4 months. Flouride and chlorine bleach your paint. These things are added to drinking water to keep it sake but it's not good for cars. The Car is Washed with a soap that has lubricant /wax mixed in the solution. Then rinsed with water that has been filtered. Mr clean car wash may cost 14-16 dollars for three washes worth if using as directed. However what if I dont wanna use thier product. Heres the DIY Part!

FYI filtered water may be obtianed from some stores that charge 10-15 cents per gallon. However they must be filtered from having chlorine and Iron in them. Its possible to wash a whole car with 7 gallons or less when washed by hand. Even at 7 gallons thats less than a dollar if you have your own container ( which goes back to the Pressurized sprayer)

DIY Spot Free Car Wash
1. Pull out a bucket that is clean on the inside.

2. Use a Brita or Pur water filter pitcher. The pitcher only makes about 6 cups of water per minute so be prepared to wait. My idea was to use a gatorade water cooler or other type of water dispensor with a serving valve at the bottom. These valves dont flow very fast so you can sit the Pur water filter on the bucket top then open the water dispensor and it will simply filter the water for you without filling the water pitcher a few times.

3. Either prepare to use a Spray bottle to rinse the car with filtered water or!! You can get a Insecticide pressure sprayer ( one of those that has a nozzle hose and hand pump on top) and fill it with the filtered water.

4. Use my instructions from the previous post on how to wash a car. Wash the car like you are suppose to with a low surfactant residue soap ( car soap). Then rinse with the filtered water. The water leaves the paint finish spot free as there are no contaminants to dry onto the paint in the water.

Notice: really the only thing you need to worry about here is using a good wax or soap with wax and Rinsing with filtered water. The filtered water can be poured straight from a pitcher but that takes probably 10-15 fills to wash the whole car. You could even use a Squirt gun ( super soaker type) I rather you a pressurized spray bottle.

Pressure spray bottles can be ordered for a small price or even go buy one intended for insecticide. Never the less using this kind of portable water source makes this form of car washing Apartment Friendly and there are not garden hose hookups required.

Original Posts at : upgradecar.blogspot.com
http://upgradecar.blogspot.com/2008/01/diy-mr-clean-filtered-water-and-spot.html

How to Wash a Car by Hand , Fresh Paint, Custom paint care

How to Wash a car by Hand, fresh paint and custom paint care

I enjoy washing my car. It's a no-brainer activity that takes my mind off death and taxes, it gets me off the sofa, and the kids like to help.

1.Park the car out of direct sunlight. This prevents premature drying, which can leave splotches on the paint.

2.Set everything you will need near the car.

3.Fill a bucket with water and add car wash soap in the quantity directed on its bottle.

4.Fill another bucket with plain water

5.Hose off the car to loosen the dirt. Don't use a strong jet, as this can rub grit over the paint and scratch it

6.Soak a large sponge in the soapy water, being certain to wash out any dirt in it, and begin applying it to the car

7.Wash the car section by section, beginning with the front and moving backwards

8.When the sponge becomes dirty, rinse it in the bucket with plain water. This should be done at least once per painted panel

9.After one section is washed, rinse it with the hose before moving on. You don't want the soap to dry on the paint and leave a dull haze

10.As you progess, keep the entire car wet, as this will prevent droplets from drying on the paint and leaving water-spots. You want to be able to dry the car with towels before it air-dries.

11.Scrub the dirtiest parts of the car last (the rear, the lower body, the wheels). Use a long, skinny wheel-brush for cleaning the openings of the wheels. Use steel-wool soap-pads on the tires, one or two per wheel; they get filthy. It's also a good idea to use a seperate sponge for the bottom 6" or so of the car's body, as this gets especially gritty
12.Dry the vehicle with fresh towels

13.If bug or tar or sap residue remain, remove it using the procedure to: [Remove Bugs, Tar, and Sap from Your Car].

14.After washing the car, its paint can be waxed and it's tires dressed with a product that makes them look like new

Warnings for basic car TIPS:
Don't use dish-soap to wash your car. It'll strip off the wax and dry out Plastic parts and rubber ( rubber has oil in it and dishsoap removes it)

Make sure you start from the top of the car and work your way to the bottom, cleaner to dirtier
( if you dont you could get grim on the rag and scratch the paint)

Polymer Products ( turtle wax clear)
Wax (or one of the newer polymer products) protects the paint from the sun so it doesn't fade or deteriorate, and from the flying grit being kicked up by the vehicles in front of yours on the highway. Polymer products wear longer than wax. And the ones purchased at auto supply stores are just as durable as the ones the car dealers charge $450 to apply.

Microfiber towels
Microfiber towels work the best on all of a car's surfaces. When you're finished using them, toss them in the washing machine. And don't use fabric softener. It can leach out of the towels and leave a residue on surfaces. These towells are so cheap now you can toss them every one or two car washes and spend 5 dollars to get another set of 5.

Keep a Microfiber towel in a ziplock and spray bottle of filtered water!
Bird droppings and bugs can damage the car's paint. Get them off as soon as possible with a damp rag or when washing the car. Sooner the better!

Small spots embedded in paint? Clay BAR Treatment!
If after washing the car, you can feel particles imbedded in the paint when you run your hand over it, you can use a clay bar system to remove the contaminants before waxing

Original Post found at: Upgradecar.blogspot.com
http://upgradecar.blogspot.com/2008/01/how-to-wash-car-by-hand-paint-care-and.html